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Stryker Elevons


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Before your first flight you should check to see if the elevons are in correct position. If you replace the clevis, pushrods, or elevons these steps will need to be done over.

Adjust elevons the simple way:

  1. #1 (For safety, remove the prop) Turn on transmitter and set both trims to zero (0)

  2. #2 Remove the threaded clevis from control horn on elevon.

  3. #3 Press a straight edge flat against bottom of wing and elevon (about center)  PIC.  or you can lay the planes wing flat on a table top so the rest of plane is hanging off, either way will work.

  4. #4 Heres a kool trick. Looking from the end of wing so you could look thru the holes of the control horn on elevon, pick the hole you want then tighten or loosen the clevis till the small pin in clevis blocks the hole in control horn perfectly. Then remove straight edge and attach clevis to the hole in control horn.

  5.  

  6. Aligning Clevis to Control Horn: PIC

  7.  

Stock Elevons:

The B and C model elevons with plastic hinge tabs are usually very stiff they should be worked in a bit to loosen them up as it will make the servos work harder.

Tip: The small plastic pins that hold elevon on tend to rip out the thin foam tabs where they connect. Adding a strip of tape along bottom edge of foam and a dab of glue in each tab before putting on the elevons helps to keep it from tearing out. Before pushing the pins thru you could even run another strip of tape over the top edge to make it stronger.

Tip: When pushing clips on the hinge pins dont make them to tight. If the foam pushes in making a dimple, pins are too tight. PIC to tight. PIC just rite.

The A model fuses come with tape hinges, no hinge tabs on fuse or elevons.

Tape Hinges: See Diagram

Balsa Elevons:

One of the best things about balsa is you can make them different sizes and they are ez to make, but before ordering balsa online try your local crafts stores, they usually have a huge bin of thin woods you can use.

Tip: I go to the craft store, you will find that some balsa is very soft and some harder than others, give them a little twist and find the strongest ones. Its also a little cheaper at the craft stores.

What size do I make?

Stock elevons are 1-7/8 W x 14 L. Using wider elevons like 2" is no problem, actually the plane seems to float better so anywhere between stock and 2" is fine. Some like to laminate a thin piece of basswood or other hard wood to the balsa for a stronger elevon, do you need to do that? Ive never had a problem with balsa but it cant hurt to make it stronger.

Making elevons:

Cut the balsa to shape with a hacksaw blade, then give it a slightly beveled trailing edge using a palm sander. Heres the most important part. You need to draw a straight line down the center of elevons and trailing edge of plane to know where the slots should be made. Once you find dead center of both you can start cutting the slots for hinges, slots must be cut perfectly centered on line or hinges will bind.

Adding hinges:

There are many types of hinges but I use the small nylon dubro hinges #117 or #119, usually 3 per side but 4 wont hurt. Most of the cheap cutting knife kits for $5 bucks have a flat 1/2" blade, this is what I use to make the slots. Line up the blade with line you made and wiggle it in, if you go in on an angle you could pop it thru the top of elevons so make sure it goes in (straight and level) once you made the slots push the hinges into the elevons so the metal pins in the hinges are even with the edge of balsa. Once hinges are in I like to drill a small hole thru blasa and hinges to lock the hinges in place using tooth picks thru the holes, then trim off tooth picks flush. Now put the elevons into position on trailing edge of fuse but lay the hinges on top the trailing edge. Lightly trace around each hinge with a pencil so you know where each hinge needs to be. Come back with flat cutting blade and make slot at each hinge location using the straight line you made earlier on the trailing edge, like the elevons, drill a small hole thru each and add a tooth pick.

Tip: When buying control horns get horns with a wide bottom stance, on some horns the screws are so close together they tend to rip out, with screws further apart it will be alot stronger and less likely to rip out. You could also glue a 1"x 1" piece of plastic or tin to strengthen the area but unless your running a 4+ pound plane I dont think you will need to do that.

Tip 2: Use 2-56 all threaded rods with the 2-56 metal gold-n-clevises. You only solder one end (servo end) but I use a 1/2 drop of super glue which is much easier than soldering. With Non-threaded rods that need to be soldered be 100% sure that the solder sticks, some people have had the solder break loose and lose control of the plane, threaded rods wont come loose.

 

 

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